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I think there was a jump-the-shark moment in ’95 where the number of restaurants opening outpaced the number of chefs who followed the traditional path of going to cooking school, becoming a sous chef, apprenticing, etc.—that was a ten-year process.I think because of the explosion of restaurants and the popularity of dining out, there was less of that.He opened a couple of great restaurants, including Gramercy Tavern, and has run an impeccable restaurant for 12 years. I think a lot of people think that’s the model—but only a very rare few can actually pull it off.You’re the elder statesmen of TV’s famous foodies: What do you think of the evolution?I didn’t want to be in an office all day long looking at paperwork, and yet, that’s exactly what I’m doing.” The de facto business model for chefs who want to “make it” seems to be Tom Colicchio’s; that is: open restaurant, get on TV, get famous, open more restaurants, get rich.What Tom did was put in a good 20 years without actually being on TV.My partner Steve [Scher] was a lawyer, but he got out of the lawyering biz and decided to open a restaurant because he felt bored.He’s on his third now and told me once, “It’s really funny, I opened a restaurant to have fun but the more successful I am, the less fun I have.

For a man to cook for a woman is probably the ultimate gesture of love and care and generosity because men typically don’t cook for women. I would never, ever think of doing that to the kitchen. In fact, I cook more now than I ever did when I ran a restaurant. When you write cookbooks, you’re constantly cooking and developing recipes.When a man does something maternal and nurturing and sensitive, it doesn’t matter what you serve. So, how many of the kitchens that you’ve presided over have you had sex in? There’s a sensitivity and a sensuality to cooking, but it’s not like that. You’ve written five books, you had two seasons on NBC, you’ve guest-judged . From my first cookbook to my last, I’ve shifted from a very professional chef’s point of view to a home cook’s perspective. When I transitioned from the restaurant to the home, I realized I didn’t really know how to cook at home. I realized that cooking at home was more difficult than cooking in restaurants: I didn’t have an army of prep cooks, the big muscular stove, the endless stream of clean cookware, and I found I had to do the shopping and the prep work and the cleaning.But is there a specific meal that might help things along? It’s very tactile—you pull it apart with your hands and dip it in butter. It’s actually one of the easiest things in the world to cook. This last book really shows the spectrum of what a home cook is facing.Has it changed things back in the restaurant world, or only in pop culture?Do you think it’s producing a generation of made-for-TV chefs who didn’t do the tough work of opening a restaurant first?

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